Woanders

IRAN

Cycling north through Beluchstan

As plans didn’t work out we decided on a bigger detour including Iran and thereafter making our way to Oman. We caused a lot of fear and worries back home when deciding to take this detour. Understandable and while there are certainly many good reasons not to visit the country there are many more to visit it. Among travellers it has been and is still is one of the most memorable and hospitable countries.

Bearing a few things in mind and preparing beforehand. First money, it is not possible to withdraw money in Iran with a foreign card. We change enough Dollars and try to understand the complicated system of Tomani and Rial. Second, „do nothing no normal tourist would do“ and try to blend in with the local customs, which is a bit tricky being a bike traveller. So we tell ourselves not to try too many offroad routes and rather stick to the normal roads. Last, not so important, but also the reason we are a bit late with our updates – restricted internet access – means we need a good working VPN.

Our journey to Iran starts at the Busstation in Karachi. We arrive german/austrian 3 hours early at the station, pay the extra fee for our bikes and luggage and are asked to wait and sit in front of the ticket office. Half an hour after the scheduled departure three fully loaded pick-ups appeared stuffing bag after bag inside the bus. Our fear grows, where should our bikes and our luggage fit now in this bus? The bus driver, very chilled beforehand points out: „now hurry we leave!“ So we rush bag after bag into the bus and the bikes are squeezed inside the remaining luggage area. Eieieiei, travelling with a bus with bikes is really not the funniest part – but when the alternative is escorts and a shuttle in the back of police cars, this still feels like the better option. The bus ride is uncomplicated, one police check and a few hours later we arrive at the border. There is a room where people can rest until the border opens.

Similar to Pakistan I travel in long clothes here in Iran and I wear a buff to cover my hair when we are passing towns. Rolfi asked a few people in the first village if its okay for him to cycle in shorts – no problem and so he keeps his standard outfit.

The first kilometres are flat, dry and crazy warm. Palm trees, banana plantations and a few streams mix up the arid landscape.

To our surprise we learn that there is a crocodile rehabilitation centre in this area. Better not camp to close to the streams! After a long time off the bike we are eager and motivated. Our days start early, enjoying the silence of the dawn and the cooler hours. Until the horizon announces the rising sun in an Aquarell of red, purple and yellow. The passes are smooth we can ride them in our highest gears, gradients of 3-7 % ! Our lowest gear feels neglected already, having been hardly in use these days. People are hesitant yet unbelievably hospitable. The streets are less crowded but the white Peugeot Pars are trying their best to break speed records in the curves. In the country side the model is predominant and we hardly see another type or colour of car. Although we feel less exposed here we do get attention. On our second day cycling we see a white Peugeot overtaking us, stopping in the next curve and pulling out a black device which we later identify as a massive TV camera. After he stopped for a second time, we do actively approach him and ask him what he is filming for. He explains that he is filming for national TV and that it is no problem. A bit irritated we explain him that we don’t want too much attention, that we also don’t feel comfortable doing an interview and that it would have been nice if he could have asked us beforehand. However our irritation blows away quick as he has been absolutely kind and welcoming (like everyone else). As a goodbye gift he offers water, fruits and dates. Who knows where our sweaty faces will appear?

Although the roads are fairly quiet it never gets boring. Sometimes during the day teenagers like to follow us on their motorcycles, they have fun to circle us, race us and sometimes come scarily close to our bikes and engaging us in conversation. Some situations feel rather uncomfortable as after the few small talk answers, questions become aggressive and when stopping and asking them to leave we are once told straight up to f* ourselves. We wish we could talk to them to understand their intentions and perceptions but the strange situations don’t really allow for deeper conversations. We sense a very different perception how the youth/ young adults and elderly people approach us.

A small gravel detour after Bam

To our surprise Iran has amazing cafes to offer, every tiny village appears to have at least one of them with an shiny espresso machine and lovely decorations. Rolfi is sure that this was not the case when he was there the last time 12 years ago- but who knows? We enjoy lunch under palmtrees, snack on winter dates, appreciate nice chats and find some remote camp spots. In Pakistan we often had a hard time finding camping spots in the wild due to the population density or the rough terrain and so we often opted for the option to camp in the backyard of guesthouses. We cycle to Iranshar and then take a Bus to the city of Bam to skip the highways and stay in a hostel to visit the castel of Bam. 20 years ago the city was shaken by a severe earthquake in which almost half of the population died. It seems like every person has lost someone during the catastrophe and somehow you can feel the mourning, people are going through. Cheerful faces behind a veil of devastation. The famous castle was also destroyed and is now reconstructed.

While checking some maps we spotted a nice little gravel detour after Bam. We follow a bigger road towards the mountain range of Zagros. In Dehbakry we do a last bit if shopping and then we head off. Nights get pretty cold and as we decided to do a biwak we wake up in frozen sleeping bags. At some point we will write about our equipment but here is a bit of a spoiler, one of the few items that really let us down is our tent. The zippers don‘t close properly for months already and the outer tent ripped at the seams. So these days we try to bivouac whenever possible and where we feel comfortable doing so.

The roads on our detour are steep and yes we even have missed pushing the bikes. We pass by a few huts with waterpipes (always a relief). One shepherds passed our way with beautiful fluffy goats with corkscrew-like horns. Dusty blue and pink coloured mountains surround the roads. The route is super nice and it does feel like an achievement when it works out as planned.

We pass through Rayen and pay a quick visit to the Rayen waterfall.

One day police stopped Rolfi (riding a few meters behind me) while I, unaware of the action just continued, have to turn around again to check the situation. They insist that the road is dangerous, cars drive too fast and it is a smuggler route. Shouldn’t it be their job to make sure this isn’t the case? We ask them what we should do with this information – they don’t know. Drivers did ride fast, yes, but overall we had no uncomfortable situations so far, aside from the motorcycle teens. So we insist that we continue.

Our highs are followed with some downs, since a few weeks Rolfi‘s stomach is making troubles. Its on and off but never really good – a classic travel issue. We have tried a few meds, a stomach friendly diet and hope for the best but whatever it is, it is persistent.

Lut Desert – Action, romance and sandy naps

Our next destination is Kerman and there we decide to visit our next destination with a guide via car instead of cycling. Partly because of the weak and hence moody of Rolfi but also because it would have been a one way road into the desert. And so we make our way to the hottest place on this planet (70 degrees measured in summer) – Lut Dessert. On the way there we visit the small city Shahdad.

Our guide drives us in his yellow Peugot Taxi and is super motivated to show us the nicest spots and taking the best pictures. From romance to action photoshoot, he is eager to make it memorable for us. We re not crazy about pictures but do play along. Jumping, posing, throwing sand. He was specially amused by our jumping picture, screenshotting Rolfi‘s signature move and giggling every time he looks at it. (Tobi: maybe we can sneak it on the Homecoming concert flyer?)

The desert is stunning – not like anything we have seen before. Sand formations shaped by winds and rain arise from the gold. Lut desert covers and area of 166000 square kilometres.

We also learn that a few years ago the whole area was flooded due to heavy rainfall in the mountains about 100km away. Roads are still reconstructed these days. On the way back we stop in Shahdad to buy some dates which are special in these region (and unbelievably cheap and sooooo delicious.

Yazd – a masterpiece of ventilation and watersupply in the desert

From Kerman we decide to take another bus to Yazd – which was high up on our sightseeing list. Yazd is located on the Iranian plateau close to the Spice and Silk Roads. Water is supplied via a canal = qanat system developed to draw underground water – a unique way humanity made living in a desert possible. The city has an earthen architecture and the core of the old town retains its traditional districts, the qanat system, traditional houses, bazars, hammams, mosques, synagogues, Zoroastrian temples and gardens.

The windtowers (Badgirs) rise above the beige old town and its channels hidden below our feet has a vibrant and calm atmosphere. Between shiny guesthouses, old ruins crumble to the ground and become playgrounds for cats and hideouts for pigeons. The windows of the houses face inwards into a lush garden with lemon trees and little ponds. The living room is often underground to escape the burning heat. Yazd is also supposed to be cycling capital of Iran. In the guesthouse we meet a few iranian travellers. A young couple from Teheran shares many thoughts and book recommendations. He is a german teacher and unbelievable eloquent in german and english (probably also Farsi but we wouldn’t be able to tell). It is enlightening to get their perspection about Europe and the Western world and the developments. The meaning of democracy, the meaning of religion and the acceptance of other religions, freedom and the meaning of it, restrictions and the way to live with them.

In Yazd we visit a nice rooftop cafe/ art gallery (3times), a water museum, the city center, a beautiful new guesthouse with lots of german antiques (like a Kuckuck Clock) and a Zurkhaneh – a traditional Irani Workout taking place in an old water tower (we are told that it is the only one in Iran where women are allowed to watch). The sound of a drum raises the heart rat of the athletes (and ours), while they are juggling and throwing crazy shaped weights or metal chains. Spiced up with some Squads, Lunges and Push-Ups. A strict yet not to pushy group leaders is constantly motivating the team.

In the guesthouse we also meet a very very nice couple from the sunniest town of Germany. They cycled from Germany to Iran. We highly appreciated the talks and the company and also to share some thoughts, uncertainties and to see the dynamic other couples have during their bike journey. We decide to ride to Shiraz together. The landscapes are rather unspectacular but the days flew by with the two travel companions.

The four of us are on our way to Shiraz

On the way we pass the Cypress tree of Aberkuh, between 4000 and 5000 years old. The cypress in Iran is the tree of life, a symbol of immortality and beauty. The camps above 2000m on the route are freezing cold and the nights are long almost every morning our tents are frozen. One pass sticks in my mind which had beautiful switchbacks leading into wonderful landscapes.

On the way we pass by a few cross shaped tombs in the walls of a sandcoloured mountain. They are believed to be the tombs of of Darius the Great and those of Xerxes I, Artaxerxes I, and Darius II.

A few kilometres further we reach the world heritage sight of Persepolis. The site is located near the confluence of the rivers Kor and Sivand. Persepolis was the ancient capital of the kings of the Achaemenian dynasty of Iran/Persia. We take some time to visit the perfect blocks of stone crafted to high pillars, the sculpted lions and the engravings depicting life and mythologies, lying on the foot of Kūh-e Raḥmat (“mountain of mercy”).

Our travel companions invited us to stay with a friend of theirs in his spare / soon to be flat. They met him in the north while he was also on a cycling tour. Some sightseeing, a beautiful and entertaining sunset hike and a hospital visit because of Rolfis stomach (still/again) it is time to leave Shiraz. Somehow we didn’t take many pictures in Shiraz – but it was a wonderful time with cheerful dinners and deep conversations which we really appreciate.

While Rolfi is still recovering we originally planned to take a bus to the seaside, from where we wanted to visit two island and then take a ferry to Dubai. Already in a taxi to the bus station, we pivot our plans and decide to ride on the bikes to the south.

To the beach!

Rolfi – miraculously having recovered, as soon as he is back in the saddle again – is eager to bike and never getting enough hours and kilometres. After a few long cycling days the four of us reach the ocean – celebrating it with mango ice-cream. The road at the seaside leads for a few kilometres through a special economic zone – aka oil refineries for about 10 kilometers. We ride alongside the plants and the flare stacks and feel like we see part of a computer game. The air is simmering on the flares, light blue and yellow. An occasional blast pushes out the flames like a nasty pimple that bursts, and you can feel the heat.

Later we head to the seaside and even get to ride a few kilometres one fine gravel. Camping on the beach, lunch break dive in warm ocean, mango ice-cream – life could be worse 🙂

After a short ferry ride we arrive on Qeschm island where we take some time to explore the island and (almost) all its super stylish coffee shops.

Next on our list was the famed Hormoz island. Two ways to get there: official boat and private boat. With our bikes we decide for the latter as it seems easier than arguing with the captain for a price. In the little harbour a sea turtle makes her turns.

After some waiting time more and more people are loaded into the tiny boat and a little panic bumbles up. One little spin in the harbour and the captain decides that a few people must leave and take the next boat. We are beyond relieved. And then the party started – literally. Music blasting, canned drinks passing, lots if singing and us – not in a party mood. The boat ride is about 30 minutes long and we pass many ships seemingly parking in the middle of the ocean. As soon as we arrive in Hormoz, the party continues. Something we did not anticipate, on the “eco-island” with its geo-tourism and apparently also party tourism. The little town is so loud and while supposedly no cars are allowed on the island the motorbikes and tuk tuks give their best to create traffic and noise. Garbage everywhere. The famed island turned out to be a big disappointment for us.

We visit the few tourist highlights but are happy to leave again, this time with the official ferry. After a few stressful hours in Bandar Abbas, arranging a Visa extension and money exchange we make our way to the harbour to leave for Dubai.

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UAE

Dubai statt (instead of) Stubai

Who would have thought that we would spend the Christmas time in Dubai? After a night on a very empty ferry we arrive (a few hours later than expected) at the Harbour of Sharjah.

40 kilometer through the flashy Dubai jungle wait for us.
With the ocean on the right and multiple-story buildings on the left hand side we ride towards our accommodation. Passing through an area of Dubai with „normal“ sized buildings, markets and huzzle on the streets.  The four of us arrive in our airbnb – our bungalow with 20 stories –  located at Business Bay. A warm pool – with it’s own lifeguard – rinses of the tensions of the spectacular and scary ride through Dubai. Our four person airbnb has one double and a couch where one person would only fit on – so we moved to the balcony and watch the building next door being constructed day and night – non stop. The next days are spend with replacing broken clothes or gear, eating and cooking a Christmas dinner: Soya stew with „fake“ red cabbage made out if white cabbage and fried pan dumplings. While looking for a fresh bakery, we end up in a fancy hotel, christmas chorals blast and people posing in front of the gigantic, extravagant Christmas tree. Rolfi is more fascinated by the tallest building in the world – the Burj Khalifa with it’s 828m. We really need to be careful that we don’t run into a pole or get a stiff neck, as our gaze is almost automatically following the tall buildings touching the sky.

Lukasz – who I used to study with – lives now in Dubai. We could send a few items we needed to his place which was incredible helpful for us. We separate from our travel companions in Dubai, we have a similar journey yet different routes to get there. Our last Dubai spoil is at a nice brunch place where they offer vegan and organic food. Foodwise one of the highlights of our trip and I had the best kombucha I have every tried. After this nice breakfast we ride to one of the fancy dubai bike shops to pick up new tyres and exchange my handlebar. I do love the style of my handle bar but realized it is too much backdrop for me and decided to change it.

And then our small loop though UAE starts. Dubai feels for us like a multi-cultural vibrant city. During the short time we spend in Dubai, we talk to people from around 20 different nations. Many told us their initial plan was to stay one year and they stayed much longer. 88% of the population is represented by expats working in various fields. We do wonder how life is for them and their families and how integrated they are. Even with our exotic bikes we don’t attract much attention – which is nice. Some more hustling with the SUVs on the roads and then arrive at a new bicycle highway leading to the artificial lakes of Dubai. Families are having a picknick next to flamingos and the heart shaped „love lake“. The unnatural environment with the many happy faces and the bright birdlife makes us rethink about our previous thoughts about the artificial touch Dubai has.

Sandy Business

It s a fine line between a nice drift in the sand and getting allmost buried in it. While we try to find the best route through the sand, hot air ballons decorate the morning sky where the sun is pressing its rays through the electricity lines. In the far distance a shiny object attracts our attention. Not the sun, not the moon but the solar tower of the of a hybrid solar energy complex, (one of) the largest sites in the world.

After some push-a-bike we end up at the camels morning exercise on a race track. One cheerful rider on a large sized camel up front and a few smaller ones on a leash in the back. And so they walk, trott and sometimes galopp on the sand track. One rider invites to join them on the camel, we stick to our camels and ride next to them until the end of the track.

One steaming morning while we are pushing through some sandy sections a car passes by and starts chatting with me. I tell him I am from Austria (he isn’t sure where it is) – close to Germany. His faces brightens up and he tells me that he is often going on holidays to Germany, Zell am See and that he has been on the glacier and visited the Krimmler waterfalls. Well I can’t blame him as in my mind the whole UAE is the same as Dubai. He asks me if I need anything, like dates, water, coffee, pool, car and camel? in such a genuine and friendly way and so I take the bag of dates he is offering. We arrive to another camel race area, only a few camels are on their feet. There are four lanes for vehicles next to the race track. After some googling we find out that:

• Camels can run up to 64 km/h
• Robot jockeys sit on the camels these days. The camel jockey robots are mostly remote-controlled, so that some high-dollar camel races are now characterized by the fact that the owner of the racing stables are chauffeured in their limousines or SUVs on a road parallel to the race track. In order to get the maximum performance out of their own camel in the race tby remote control and to control the success at close range
• The best race camels are worth up to 3mio dollars

In the meantime we hope that these camels are treated like they are worth the millions. While it is a interesting insight in the culture and an old tradition, we do ask ourselves how the camels are treated and what they have to endure in their life as a race camel.

Wadis – wonderful, adventurous, dusty, incredible, scenery

After the camps in the dessert, shoes filled with golden dust and sand corns in our morning coffees we are looking forward to a different landscape.

A Wadi is a riverbed or valley of a stream in regions that is usually dry except during the rainy season and often forms an oasis. We head into Wadi Asimah. Winding tracks on loose deep gravel lead through farms of palm trees and washed out rock walls. We get stuck in an area where some mining takes place and a new highway was built and hence all the connecting roads are disappeared.

So a few kilometres on a highway and we head to the next Wadi. Thereafter we head a little bit into Wadi Shakwa where we found a beautiful camp spot. Along the roads we met many camels and many donkeys, perfectly groomed yet roaming around wild. They appear super confused when seeing the bikes and start running in front of us, stopping again to look back and when we come closer start running again. Then we pass through Wadi Al Ejili until we reach Hatta where we meet our Iran travel buddies again and share a dinner, breakfast and stories from the past days. The last day of 2024 is spent in the trail center of Hatta. Which has quite a few kilometres of fun MTB trails which we explore with our rigid adventure bikes. Quite a few technical uphills mixed up with flowy section and some steep downhills.

We look back at a year full of changes, adventures, growth and memorable encounters and breathtaking nature.

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Our Path

Iran: 2000km | 15000 altitude meter, 2 short distance busses

UAE: 470km | 3100 altitude meters

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