The Annapurna Circuit – Nepal Part 1
En Route to Kathmandu
Hello Nepal!
Crossing the Indian Border into Nepal was big for us. Nepal was our goal from the start – from the Altai to the central Himalayas. Lots of detours in between but we finally cross this border. It took more than 10 minutes of explaining and wikipedia searches at the Indian side that: “No Austria is not the same as Australia” and “Yes Austria is a country and yes it exists”. Once in Nepal the roads didn’t really improve but the camping option where plentiful. A few long thunderstorms, flooded bridges, many construction sites, 50+ momos, one nice pass and a 100% wild camping quota later we arrive in Kathmandu.
Kathmandu – Monkeys, city buzz and lots of amazing food
We arrive in the evening hours in the capital. Flashlights reflect in the untypically hazy sky.
We are staying in the Monkey Bunky hostel in Kathmandu which is a little bit outside next to the Swamboo or as tourist call it the monkey temple.
The area is quiet(er) with nice Cafés, many temples and monkeys performing gymnastics in front of our windows. In the morning our alarm clock starts at 5ish with the prayers from the monastery, later the laughing sequence of a free yoga class in the park and thereafter warriors shouts from an exercise sessions. We meet up with friends, do some sightseeing, get lost in the small alleys of Lalitpur (the former old capital) and celebrate our third new year, this time the Nepalese New Year – happy 2082!
Initially we planned to go hiking but since Rolfi’s knee is not in the best shape we decide to pivot these plans and saddle the bikes again. Light set up this time – only necessities will come along on this stretch of the journey. Bye Kathmandu – for now!
Annapurna Circuit
Towards the Annapurna Circuit
Right on the first day we get caught in a quite bad thunderstorm and got saved by a lovely family who offered us shelter for a night.
The next day greets us with an crystal clear sky, muddy tracks and a fun route. Riding through lush green valleys with juicy fields, glowing in the brightest green and yellow tones.
Passing through Gorkha, the birthplace of Prithvi Narayan Shah – the last king of the Gorkha empire and the one who started the unification of Nepal.
Beautiful camp spots all along the route! In the small village of Kharpan we can see the white majestic mountains rising up in the distance. We are super excited to see those giants, first time since long.
Disguised and cloaked in a cloud, hiding behind the haze but if you look closely enough you can see the Annapurna Range on the one side and Manaslu Range on the other.
On track – hello Annapurna Circuit
In Besisahar we join the widely known bikepacking route: the mighty Annapurna Circuit. The circuit lies in the largest conservation area of Nepal. The route became popular internationally after Nepal opened up for Tourism in the 1960s. Before it was a trading route, linking the lush forest to the Tibetan plateau.
Yep we are excited and ready for some challenging riding after the long hot days on tarmac! And so we follow, like many other hikers and a few cyclist the Marsyangardi River upstream. Its a gravel road – the steepest parts are coated with concrete. Hikers usually take some side paths these days. The first night we check in at the Mont Blanc Hotel and quickly hop 200 altitude meters down to relax in nice hot springs. What a treat after a hard day. The next day we head further into the valley.
Lizards peak out between the mossy walls next to the dusty road. Guesthouses and restaurants string together in the villages. A few motorbikes, a few trucks and some construction vehicles pass our ways. Some switchbacks feel smooth and easy, yet most of the climbs are very steep and exhausting. The first kilometres we spend riding through a canyon and after a while the valley opens up.
At the end of our second day of the loop the Great Wall of Pisang appears, shining in the afternoon light. The wall is the westface of the Paungda Dandaholy or Swarga Dwar mountain and is considered as holy.
In the comfort of trees we find a beautiful campspot. Smoked tomatoes spice up the pasta for dinner.
We take a little detour through Upper Pisang.
We pass Braga Gompa, an 600 year old monestary hiding in the sharp rock faces. Then we reach Manang. Here the road ends. Although Manang is the epicenter of Tourism in this valley it maintained a nice atmosphere. Every guesthouse seems to have its own bakery and every other house is serving as an accommodation. The smell of the cinnamon rolls is all too tempting!
Tilicho Lake – Hike’n’Bike
The next day we head out with the bikes for an acclimization tour to the “Tilicho Basecamp”. Until the little village of Khangshar it is perfectly bike-able. Afterwards a small narrow hiking trail leads up to 4400 meters. Followed by some sketchy meters next to steep slopes with loads of loose rubble.
The trail is shared with donkeys and many lovely hikers. The hierarchy on the trail should not be ignored: Donkey, guides and porters (both usually crazy fast), hikers and then cyclists. Yet on the whole trail we were only greeted with smiles and sometimes astonishment but never anger or annoyance!
The next day we hike up to Tilicho Lake (4919 m), bedded in between beautiful mountains.
The grand finale (for now) – Thorung La
The next day we head further into the valley. Some pushing but most of the time we can cycle the broad hiking path. Suspension bridges keep our feet dry during the river crossings – fun but sketchy in the wind!
We arrive in Phedi by early afternoon. Our legs and our head feel good, so we decide to go up to the high-camp.
From here onwards we will have to push the bikes which is surprisingly easy given the terrain and the altitude. One the way up something is moving between rocks and snow – maybe a snow leopard? Turns out the wildlife starts above 4500 meters and we spotted some Thibetian cocks, hopping up and down on the slope while wild goats are grazing on the other side of the trail.
400 altitude meters of bike pushing later we arrive at High-Camp. Huts and restaurants lie next to a massive garbage pit.
We set up our camp a little bit aside and celebrate our first Bike Camp above 5000 meters! The evening light sharply cuts the sky in thirds. Clouds move rapidly and blend with the glaciers.
The night is surprisingly quiet, warm and comfortable and next morning we skip the alpin start, wait until the sun hits the tent and have a long breakfast. We let the people pass and start our „pass push“ later in the morning. Today we feel the altitude, our bodies feel weaker.
The air – thin and brittle, each breath a fragile, tentative sail, against the high-mountain gale.
20 Steps walking and pushing the bike – 5 breaths for the last 400 Altitude meters to the Pass.
And all of a sudden the pass is here: 5416 meters. Surrounded by glaciers and 6000 meter peaks overlooking the edge of the Tibetan plateau. Highest point with bikes for both of us! We are exhausted and happy!
Weather is about to change and we put our winter gear on. Downhill from here. The scenery changes dramatically as we are entering Lower Mustang. Now we are riding through thea moon-like, dry and rough landscapes. The first kilometers: easy and steady.
Afterwards: narrow curves and loose rocks. Rolfi manoeuvres his heavy donkey (the bike) through the curves, elegantly like an elephant on an iceskating ring. I am pushing the bike down over the trickier bits. The mind is blocked by fear and tiredness. Me (slightly disencouraged), Rolfi (impatient), and so we reach the first hut from here it is not far to the next town. Snow is starting to fall. The path improves and little later we arrive in Muktinah just behind the Buddha statue overlooking the valley.
Oh – we did not expect the buzz! The stairs leading up to the temples are packed with people. Young nepali men carry pilgrims up the stairs and through the narrow dirt paths leading through the houses. Some of the pilgrims have scaringly blue faces – deprived of oxygen. We are still on almost 4000 – probably people come from the lowlands up here in one day. Muktinah is an important pilgram place for Hindus and Buddhists. In Buddhism it is know as “Hundred Waters,” and it is considered a sacred place. It is also one of the 24 Tantric places. Furthermore here is one of the 108 sacred temples for Vaishnavism,(in which Vishnu is the supreme being) making it an important place for Hindus.
We manoeuvre through the alleys and the crowd and arrive in our guesthouse. Its been 10 days since we left Kathmandu and we need a day off! More importantly we need time to plan our next adventure – because back in Kathmandu someone put a bug in our ears about a route heading further west.
Two days later we are on the way to what will become one of our most adventurous routes so far.
Our Path
Nepal stats so far: 820 km | 20000 altitude meter
Woanders 
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