The Pamir Highway and beyond
The no man’s land between the borders – a meet and greet zone. The checkpoint is uncomplicated with the right documents and permits. A few cookies from the borderguards and a check of our permits and then we cross into the no man’s land between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.
We are officially on the famous Pamir Highway now. First time for Julia and its Ralfis third time in Tajikistan. Red painted rivers, ice walls on the horizons and lots of cyclists come towards us – complaining about the road that leads up to the pass. Mongolia has definitely prepared us for the worst.
Also we finally had the honour to meet the spanish cyclist Pablo who gave us amazing insights, tips and helped us with finding trekking routes.
Between the borders lies the Kizil Art pass. Almost as if it should be a mocking, the pass sign is located at the foot of the pass.
We cross the border and enter the autonomous region: Gorno-Badakhshan. The landscape changed instantly after the pass. Caramel coloured hills surround the tracks in this alpine desert. In the distance the soft glaciers are visible. Someone could imagine riding a bike on Mars must be similar. The Pamir Region is a huge area in high altitude, where only a few people out of the total population live. The next days we will never ride below 3600meters. The air instantly feels dryer. Lips start to crack again and the sun stings on the skin.
A caribbean blue lake formed by a meteor opens up on the way – Karakol Lake.
We stay at a lovely homestay and learn that these type of tourists accommodations suffer as new hotels open up. Its everywhere the same. We feel welcomed almost slightly uncomfortable by the effort the landlady puts to accommodate us.
We follow the Pamir Highway via the Ak-Baytal Pass to Murghab. Winds are strong, raising the sands and forming small dust tornados rolling over the desert plains. We stay a few days in a lovely guesthouse run by a very kind lady. The „shopping center“ – a lively container market – offers all we need for now. Somewhere in our spheres it would be considered as a upcoming place with its hip, industrial flair.
Conversations that stick
The guesthouse gathers for dinner. At first there were the introductions, followed by superficial chitchat’s about the travels and as the evening progress‘ conversations become intense. Why are we here, so far from what is called home? In the moments and words shared on a dinner table in the town of Murghab some answers can be found. A group of people from different countries discussing – face to face politics, ask questions usually too scared to ask, share jokes and serious thoughts about their nations’ history, reason about developments in their countries, share hopes and try to make sense of the brutality of the world. Unfiltered, raw, reflected and attentive. A conversation that creates goosebumps, fuels hope and despair at the same time. Words spoken – between the plastic table cloth and the ceiling wallpaper displaying the sky – will stick and float in our minds for a long time. If only a similar conversation could happen in a different time, with different people, in a different country – every now and then.
Zorkul Lake via Bel(le) Ayrik Pass- Immersing into one of the most secluded and stunning places so far
There is something about these alpine valleys that fascinates us. Our mind is set on exploring south of the region in the Zorkul Lake area. We spot the lovely sounding “Bel Ayrik” pass on our maps – Quelle belle idée! An alpine pass, 4800meters, 2 entries on google from trekking companies and presumably a wonderful view over the lakes.
Until reaching the cross section we fight the wind that starts, as if a switch would turn it on, at around 10 am. Cyclist coming from the other direction, fast as motorcycles & not even pedalling, are having the best time. We meet a local hunter who could give us some insight about our desired pass. „automaschina: 👍 – velosiped? 👍 – water?: 👍 – steep? 🫳 .“ He proudly showed us some pictures of a snow-leopard he spotted a while ago and of his cottage. Then leave the asphalt roads of the Pamir Highway for out venture thinking: „Maybe this will be an amazing new route.”
The track into the valley is straight forward and easy. Hard packed sand lead further into the valley. After about 40km we arrive at the last cottage. Thereafter the path seems to vanish into thin air. Distracted by some wild goats and yaks its hard to find the track again. Beautiful animals as they stand graciously and confidently in the landscape.
We try to navigate a nice way through the swamp and the rocks. The arms start to burn from pulling the bike out of the mud and dragging in over the obstacles. A faded path, some cairns and horns indicate the way towards the pass. From here on we mainly push the bikes. When we finally see the pass, it becomes clear that we’ll have to carry luggage and bikes in two goes. Not even the nifties Lada driver would go up that pass! One lonely mountain goat passes our way, looking at us with sheer disbelief.
We carry our bags up so we can camp up on the pass. How challenging 100 altitude meters be? The wind is whipping in our faces as we arrive at the pass at 4800m. The tears of exhaustion taste sour and sweet. In the last light we get a peak of the lake and the mountain range. The bikes will sleep at the foot of the pass.
The night is stormy but surprisingly relaxed in the altitude. Our morning exercise is waiting for us and happily we manage fairly easy to carry our heavy bikes up the rocky pass.
Some paths we have to walk twice.
The way down – same procedure and as we descend, we get a view over the trinity of the Charkan Kul (lakes). A beautiful but challenging way to reach the national park which we cannot recommend with heavy touring bikes. Our explorer thirst is definitely stilled for now!
Trackless we manoeuvre down, surrounded by yaks and wild goats. Happy to arrive at the actual track we ride alongside the lake Kuli Kukjigit.
Something so peaceful about this place. There’s absolutely no sound in this alpine valley and it feels like the most secluded place so far. A few birds leap on the back of the wind.
In this secluded place.The wind whispers softly. The land is honest, the air meaningful, the water compassionate. Everything else is trivial and small. Fly free.
The day ends with a deluxe spa in Jardy Gumbez – a tiny settlement which has a guesthouse and hotsprings. We meet two germans that venture around in their rented UAZ, having almost the same amount of troubles in swampy areas.
A pre-breakfast hotspring dip, some long breakfast chats and off we go again. A shepherd, that could come right out of the set of the movie „trainspotting“ directs us to our detour and we ride along side a river towards Cheshtebe. This time the hiking path is actually quite a nice ride.
The map shows a hospital, shops but basically Cheshtebe is a ghost town with some acrobatic bridges. No-one is around and houses are empty. Maybe winter will bring back the life to this settlement.
This evening the night-sky is screening its most spectacular movie for us. We bivy on 4200meters and watch the stars. Toktomush is our last town in Tajikistan. Another quiet place which will come back to life in winter when the cattle returns „home“. After two magnificent weeks in the Pamir Region of Tajikistan it is time for another brief visit to the autonomous region of Xinjiang in China again. A road leads up to Kolma Pass 4362m, which marks the border between Tajikistan and China.
The first peaks of the Karakorum Range appear. The mountain scenery at the border is dramatic and overwhelming. Karakorum Highway here we come. This time we just bike 60km in China. After our previous experiences we don’t mind too much.
We have to get used to traffic again and being filmed out of cars. The bordercity of Tashkurgan is another meet and greet place for cyclists and backpackers sharing information, stories and dinners to celebrate a two-year travelversary. Somewhere in-between hotel complexes, tourist distribution places, sightseeing billboards, staged dance performances – we enjoy the amazing food and good conversations!
Our Path
Tajikistan: 460km | 4200 altitude meters
Woanders 
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