Route in brief: Chovd | Mankhan | Mönhhairhan Nationalpark | Bulgan | Bulgan
Total distance covered in Mongolia: 3100 km | 33000 altitude meters
Chovd – on a mission to relax to the max and find Saiga Antilopes
In Chovd we meet a few other travellers including a cyclist from France as well as some international that work in the area. The guesthouse in Chovd is the perfect spot to chill out and plan the next weeks. Also we had a mission to spot Saiga Antilopes – Ralfis spirit animal 😉 which can be found in an area jut a few Kilometers outside of Chovd. If you ever visited his modest flat in Innsbruck, a picture of this funky animal would greet you when entering the kitchen/ livingroom / apartment 😉 we set out (with a jeep this time) to scout the mongolian backcountry and within 20 minutes we spotted the fastest animal of Mongolia. If you wouldn’t know what it is, you could think it is a very very fast dog making its way through the arid landscape. Nose always on the ground, body smoothly hoovering and the legs moving like a sewing machine. Always with one eye watching us closely, so we could only get a glimpse of them from the far distance. On pictures they looked like aliens in the shimmering heat. After finding two more Saiga antilopes we head into a canyon and scramble up towards a waterfall. On the way spotting a lot of wild garlic, rhubarb as well as horns of wild goats that habitat the steep cliffs of the canyon.
Chovd towards Bulgan – our last stretch in Mongolia
After raiding the supermarket for peanut butter, (1kg peanut butter is a thing in Chovd!).
We cruise via a paved ground to the next valley that will lead us to the national park. From the wide-open, arid landscapes we soon follow a canyon deeper into the mountain range. The landscape yet again leaves us stunned. Vertical colourful rock walls frame a lush river oasis. A smooth gravel road leads towards a small village and we make our way up further into the mountain range.
On the pass we get a first glimpse of the majestic Mönhhairhan. After an incredible ride on the high plateau and a camp with superb view on the snow covered peaks we make our way down to Bulgan. It’s a fun cruise down on good terrain. Arriving in Bulgan it feels like a festival is happening as the election campaigning is on its peak. We bike out of the valley on bumpy tracks, again in a spectacular canyon following the river until just before Bulgan. This last stretch was yet again another highlight. Riding along side the rivers (sometimes „in“ the river) surrounded by majestic peaks and rock faces.
Our last camp in Mongolia, right at the river, looking back to the valley where we came from, mosquito infested but overly happy that the routing worked out the way it did.
Our last day before crossing into China
We leave Mongolia 3 days before our Visa expires. As due to the elections the border will be closed. On the last morning Mongolia greats us once again with its notorious headwind while riding on a rather unspectacular paved road towards the border. With this draining last kilometres, we overcome our wistfulness, of having to leave the country. Or maybe the wind was pushing us back urging us to stay?
Some thoughts, feelings about travelling in Mongolia
Humble observation
Humbled by the untamed spirits that walk, run, ride, graze on the open land. Respectfully – side by side. With nature being their sole manager. Humbled by the forces – the harsh conditions. Humbled by those that withstand them, work with them and work in them. Humbled by vast expense and the endless sky.
Blown away by this experience (literally on some days), a constant sufferfest against the notorious winds. Seeking remoteness, adventure, freedom and off-tarmac biking. Found it all – beyond compare. A challenging terrain and surprisingly varying landscapes.
On the short but steep passes. Driven as the crow flies. A Vertical line from bottom to top.
Curious encounters
Riding next to herds. Curious encounters with herds and their shepherds. Observing reactions – in respectful distance. Space to retreat on both sides.
Romanticising a life so close to nature as witnessed from our comfortable position. Yet deeply grateful for this experience.
Woanders 