Route in brief: Ulaangom > Uureg Nuur > Khotgor > Achit Nuur > Ölgii > Malchin Peak (Altai Tavan Bogd National Park) > Khoton & Churgan Nuur > Buyant > Tolbo Nuur > Khovd
Shimmering lakes and coaldusted tracks (from Uvs to Bayan Ölgii Aimag)
We hit the road on a rolling paved “highway” until the turn of to the “red pass” which greets us with rain and headwind that pushes the bike backwards. Conquering the pass we head towards a gorgeous saline lake. The Uureg Nuur (lake) is nested in the mountainous landscape with fresh snow sprinkled on the tops. We ride on gravel and sand, passing deerstones and monuments. Via another steepish- pass (as lonley planet explains: „for those cyclist who have lungs of a yeti“) we reach the mining town Khotgor, bypass the massive mine and descend towards a freshwater lake. Something new for our – truck traffic (well every once in a while but we certainly saw more than our usual rate of two vehicles a day). The coal dropping off the overstocked trucks paints the roads black.
We make our way towards Ölgii over a highland area and then through a canyon close to a fast flowing river where we set up one of our favourite camp spots. With the drift wood we have a little romatic campfire. In Ölgii we find ourselves in one of the more touristy places being approached by a few helpful people working in tourism who managed to help us to arrange the border permit to go to Altai Tavan Bogd National Park.
Also we experience a notable cultural change as in this area the Kazakh culture is predominant, so „bayarlalaa“ becomes „raxmet“ (Thank you). Before leaving the city we need to fix a crack in the frame of Ralfis bike. One question asked, one helpful person and ten minutes later we stand in front of a tiny garage where a guy can weld the piece. We leave Ölgii with a nasty scar on the frame but prepared for the next rough stretch.
The long way to Malchin peak – (Bayan Ölgii Aimag)
We hit the dirt roads with the bikes packed with food for seven days. Seeing the tracks from a distance we dread this stretch. Very soon in our tour we realised one thing: if you see more than 2 tracks it means: no bueno – not for nature neither for cyclists. We dance over washboard, against the invisible wall called „wind“, further into the valley towards the icy gates of the Mongol Altai.
Happy to leave the big tracks behind we follow the Tsagan Gol (river) upstream until the tracks fade, turn into a fun horse trail and continuing flowing into the canyon until we hit a river meander. The path close to the river disappears and the canyon becomes narrow and steep. Our track leads us over a pass, one the other side we should join the river again. Goats may have taken this path in the past time, certainly no one on a vehicle. We start to push up one bike together, until it gets to steep. We dismantle it and one carries the bike, the other one the bags up the rest of the altitude meters. Arriving on top we spot a trail coming out the other-side. While Julia slides down the loose gravel on the other side, Ralfi is trying his luck with the river „path“ and so with stones in the shoes and wet feet we shall meet again – somewhere in the wild west next to three curious camels.
As we go further in the valley we had the impression that more and more wooden houses appear and less gers. Arriving at the national park entrance felt like a huge achievement and we find a small ger shop that sells next to snacks also pasta which gives us the ease to spend a bit of time in the national park. We push the bikes up on the camel tracks to a plateau and get a glimpse of the first snow covered peaks. Almost there we realise someones following us. Our first instinct was border controls but it turns out it’s a french cyclist on his way up to the park (by foot). What a coincidence, second other cyclist and then meeting him in the middle of nowhere. So far Ölgii has been the place where we met foreigners since our spa day in our very first week. We share breakfast and stories and take a small walk together.
The next morning we start our hike up to the icefree Malchin peak (4050m). We overlook the Potatnin glacier stretching over 14km, looking towards Russia in the North and China in the South. Its the westernmost part we could reach without crampons and a rope. Meeting a group who will climb the highest peak of Mongolia (Khüiten Peak), did stir our itch for alpine adventure. As we stand on the top looking down to the valley, we are overwhelmed by the impressive nature and having made it to the very west all the way from UB.
Muddy business towards Khovd (Bayan Ölgii towards Khovd)
The next day we awake in bright sunshine with no wind and with a heavy heart we leave this place.
A few river crossings later we arrive at the park entrance again where a group saddles their camels and ride with the horses up to the basecamp.
Our way leads out the same valley but we did find a detour via a pass, where you ask yourself if you are the one pushing the bike up or the bike is pushing you down the hill. Our detour did come with the mission: to find the petroglyphs which are located in the valley. At the foot of the Sheveed Uul (mountain) we discover the rock art which depicts varies scenes from the ancient life in the valley.
We ride towards the south side of the Tavan Bogd national park over rolling tracks. Passing a Kazakh farm a very kind family invited us just on the foot of the next pass. Google translate is our very best friend these days.
While May was sunny all times, June presents its rainy side to us. After the pass thunder and rain starts but as it was our first „real“ downhill in days without counter pushes, headwind or deep river crossings, no thunder or rain could spoil it. Soaked, muddy and happy we cruise into the valley. A few other river crossings follow, some kneedeep and so water drips from hair to shoes and our bags, we arrive at the Khoton lake. As the clouds hang deep and the rain continues to pure down we gladly check in at a ger at the lake and warm up with a cup of tea. People are unbelievable friendly and if in need you will always find someone to help you out with food, a place to sleep or simply route directions.
In the morning the sky turns friendlier and we get a peak of the lakes and the eternal seeming camp around the lakes with gers in the most picturesque areas.
The lush meadows also comes one downside – fast flowing, strong rivers and we experience the most adventurous river crossings so far. Hipdeep in the strong current – and our fully loaded heavy bikes even floated. Following the south side of Khurgan Lake there are may rivers to cross.
We reach a new valley and we stop in front of a old rambler lying majestically in the meadow. The family in the ger close by shows us a bridge which safes us from another river crossing and invites us for tea and snacks. The ger is beautiful, delicate wood carvings, colourful carpets and a whole frame of medals for volleyball decorate it.
On the way to Buyant our track turns into a hiking path and we soon realise that the easy rolling out of the valley is turning into a swampy, muddy push-a-bike for most of the trail. A group of horseback tourist passes our way and the follow the track to the Tavan Bogd National Park where we came from.
We pass Tolbo Nuur (Lake) where we will join the paved road until Khovd. We pump the tires and clock in several easy kilometres in the eye of 4000meter peaks. Its our first day where we ride the entire day on tarmac and (shame on us) but it did feel good (at least for the day). Its also the first day we meet other travellers on the road, a spaniard in the van who supplied us kindly with spare parts and a german on a motorcycle.
We cruise with ease via two passes the 150k to our next break day, looking forward to visit the new Guesthouse in Khovd which definitely is a great spot to relax a bit and connect with people.
Woanders 